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Phyllis Dalton, Oscar-Successful Costume Designer for Historic Epics, Dies at 99

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Phyllis Dalton, a British costume designer whose unflinching consideration to element earned her Oscars for “Physician Zhivago” and “Henry V” and popularity of her emotive, placing costumes in “Lawrence of Arabia,” died on Jan. 9 at her residence in Somerset, England. She was 99.

The dying was confirmed by her stepson, James Barton.

Ms. Dalton’s eager eye was most obvious in interval dramas and historic epics. She was recognized for her subtlety, crafting clothes that blended seamlessly into every movie’s period.

“Anybody could make a wise frock,” she stated in a brochure that was handed out throughout a 2012 British Academy of Movie and Tv Arts tribute to her. “It’s far more tough to make individuals from the previous who’re carrying unusual garments look actual.”

Phyllis Margaret Dalton was born on Oct. 16, 1925, in Chiswick, a suburb of London, to William John Tysoe Dalton, who labored for the Nice Western Railway, and Elizabeth Marion (Mason) Dalton, who labored at a financial institution. Phyllis started learning costume design at Ealing Artwork School at 13 and later turned a code breaker within the Girls’s Royal Naval Service on the facility at Bletchley Park, a task she as soon as stated she thought of “unbelievably boring.”

One in every of Ms. Dalton’s earliest stints in wardrobe was on the 1950 crime melodrama “Eye Witness.” She honed her abilities engaged on costumes for Alfred Hitchcock’s 1956 remake of “The Man Who Knew Too A lot,” Robert Rossen’s “Island within the Solar” (1957) and Carol Reed’s “Our Man in Havana” (1959). Within the Nineteen Sixties, she accomplished two of her most famed designs three years aside, dressing whole armies for “Lawrence of Arabia” (1962) and “Physician Zhivago” (1965).

After 50 years of expertise on greater than 40 characteristic movies, together with “The Princess Bride” (1987), she earned her final credit score on Kenneth Branagh’s adaptation of “A lot Ado About Nothing” in 1993.

Right here’s a glance again at a few of her most celebrated costumes:

‘Lawrence of Arabia,’ 1962

Credit score…Columbia Photos

Though Ms. Dalton didn’t win an Oscar for “Lawrence of Arabia,” the wool gown and gilt brocade that she created for T.E. Lawrence, portrayed by Peter O’Toole (left, with Michel Ray), was emblazoned into the annals of cinematic historical past. Because the character loses his sanity, his off-white gown begins to wilt, turning into threadlike and dirty.

‘Henry V,’ 1989

Credit score…Sophie Baker/BBC — Samuel Goldwyn Movies, through Everett Assortment

Ms. Dalton was meticulous; her intricate course of for getting older the costumes in “Henry V” concerned metal information, hair spray and grease.

“You’ve bought to assume what colour the mud would actually have been, make it within the place the place it occurred,” she stated. “You’ve bought to match your troopers to mud — or your Arabs to abandon, as in ‘Lawrence of Arabia.’ Deserts aren’t all yellow. I didn’t know that till I went to Jordan.”

‘Rob Roy: The Highland Rogue,’ 1953

Credit score…Everette Assortment

On “Rob Roy,” which chronicled the wartime escapades of a Scottish highlander, Ms. Dalton, seen above adjusting Richard Todd’s kilt, used “all these plaids with their beautiful vegetable dyes” to additional her experiments with colour and tone, she stated in an interview with The Sunday Telegraph in 1990.

‘The Princess Bride,’ 1987

Credit score…twentieth Century Fox, through Everett Assortment

Though Ms. Dalton initially thought the script for “The Princess Bride” was “a load of garbage,” the movie — starring Cary Elwes because the farmhand to Robin Wright’s princess — has endured as a cult favourite and a childhood staple.

Throughout filming, Mr. Elwes broke his toe, however Ms. Dalton, ever resourceful, long-established a particular shoe to guard his toe whereas nonetheless dressing him within the swashbuckling black pirate outfit and masks that he wore to avoid wasting the princess from her kidnappers.

Along with her stepson, Ms. Dalton is survived by her second husband, Christopher Synge Barton; her brother, John Dalton; and a step-granddaughter. Her first marriage, to the theater producer James Whiteley, resulted in divorce in 1976.



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